Thursday, October 16, 2025. Up at 7:25. Windy, cold, 38 degrees, going up to 60 with sunny skies.
Annoying…I have ash stuck all over my tent from the very smoky fire last night.
Chatted with Javelin and wished him happy trails. Packed up and got on the trail at 8:40.
Last Skyline Drive crossing NOBO
Very cold wind this morning. Nasty gusts. Summited Mount Marshall at 10:00. Cold and windy.
Shenandoah View Day 10
Stopped at 11:45 and 7.13 miles on Compton Peak for an early lunch. I chatted with a group of youngsters and their chaperones about the AT for a bit. It’s still quite chilly and windy. Not sure about that 60-degree forecast.
At 12:55, we left the park.
Exiting Shenandoah NOBOExiting Shenandoah NOBO
Reached the 4H facility at 2:00. Just 1.8 miles to go. Unfortunately, uphill the next mile.
We reached US 522 and the end of our hike at 2:40.
Ed and Chuck finishing Shenandoah 2025
We road walked a short distance to Mountain Home B&B to pick up Ed’s car and drive home this afternoon.
Very good trip overall. Even with the bad weather on Sunday and Monday. This will likely be my last overnight backpacking trip for the year. Between the colder weather, the lack of water, and the very short days, I think it is time to hang up the gear until the spring. Or maybe until February if I head to the South West for a few weeks.
Wednesday, October 15, 2025. Up at 8:00. Sunny and warm going up to the low 60s.
Today is our last full day on the trail and in the park. We have 7.6 miles to Elkwallow Wayside. Looking forward to hot food for lunch. Only 13.6 miles total today with nice weather. Should be a good day.
I had visitors while packing up this morning. Mom was hanging out about 8 feet from me while I was breaking down camp. She had no fear. The little one was only slightly more nervous.
Help taking down my tent day 9Curious fawn at Pass Mountain
On the trail at 9:00. Nothing much to see in the first part of today. Reached the burn area from 2 years ago. It has recovered dramatically since I hiked this site last year.
Forest Fire burn area
Reached Elkwallow Wayside at 12:00. Talked to Jolly who just flipped down to this area from NH. He has 4 more weeks on the trail headed south. Should get near the end of Virginia before he runs out of time. I pointed him to the best Chinese buffet on the AT in Waynesboro.
ElkWallow Wayside
We had a nice lunch and got back on the trail about 1:00. We have 6 miles to camp with the next 2 being a bit of a steep uphill. Should be making camp about 4:00.
View of Front Royal in the distance. About 25 miles away.
Looking North at Front RoyalShenandoah view Day 9
We arrived at Gravel Springs Hut at 4:10. Got camp set up fairly quickly. Two other guys showed up separately.
Talked to Javelin who is SOBO on a thru-hike but will have to call it quits in about 4 weeks due to an injury. He started at Katahdin in June. He will finish his thru in April next year.
Adam is out for 2 days from Arlington. He built a fire with some help from all of us.
Ed at Gravel Springs Hut
Hung out and chatted with the group until 7:15. Getting cold so headed into my tent to blog and read for a while.
Tuesday, October 14, 2025. Up at 7:30. Breezy, rainy, foggy, low 50s.
The entire resort has no water this morning. Annoying for me and Ed, but this place is going to be nasty in about an hour or two once everyone else gets up and moving.
The forecast is for clearing weather towards noon with no rain this evening. That means dry tents at camp assuming the forecast is correct. We hope to visit Stony Man, The Pinnacle, and Mary’s Rock if the weather is decent. We have 11.4 miles to camp not counting any side trips. We will wait until 9:00 or 10:00 to head out.
Water is trying to come back on at 8:45. We checked out at 9:00 and got breakfast at the restaurant before heading out. The restaurant opened at 9:00 once the water was fixed. Good timing. No coffee unfortunately.
Skyland Dining Room
Ran into Jenna and Gus Creedon at breakfast. They are doing a few-day hikes and Jenna saw me as we were leaving the dining room. Chatted for a bit. Great to see them.
On trail at 10:00. Still overcast, foggy, breezy, and wet.
Skipped Stony Man since we are still socked in by clouds.
Reached Little Stony Man Cliffs at 10:39 and 1.4 miles. Here there be dragons.
Little Stony Man LedgesLittle Stony Man Ledges
Ed’s not feeling well today. A bit of a struggle in crappy weather for him.
Reached Pinnacle picnic area at 11:50 and 4.4 miles. No change in weather up here on the mountain. Still cool, foggy, wet, and icky.
Pinnacle Picnic Area ShenandoahChuck at Pinnacle Picnic Area
Arrived at The Pinnacle at 12:45. Still cloud-covered.
Chuck at Pinnacle Rocks Shenandoah
Arrived at Birds Nest number 3 at 1:10. Sun tried to peek out for a minute, but gave up.
Bird’s Nest Shelter #3
At 1:25 we descended below the clouds for the first time today. There is sun down in the valley.
Clouds lifted in Shenandoah Day 8Clouds lifted in Shenandoah Day 8
Reached Many’s Rock at 1:55. Decent break in the weather. We have 3.5 miles to go to reach camp. Very downhill from here.
Mary’s RockMary’s Rock
Stopped at Panorama parking area for water and bathrooms before heading uphill the last 1.7 miles to camp. Surprisingly large amount of people here and on trail for a Tuesday.
Panorama Parking Area
Arrived at Pass Mountain Hut at 3:40. One bar cell service.
Pass Mountain Hut Shenandoah
Set up camp, filtered water, and settled in for the evening.
Camp site at Pass Mountain Hut
Early dinner at 5:15. We have dinner guests. Getting chilly quick and sun is setting on the other side of the mountain from us.
Dinner guest at Pass Mountain Hut
In bed at 7:30. Good day even with the fog and icky weather to start. I felt really good on trail today. No back issues.
Monday, October 13, 2025. Up at 7:00. Cloudy, foggy, rain stopping around 10:00am, warming to mid 50s.
Rainy day at Skyland
Rained all night, but should clear this morning. Fingers crossed. Will have some showers on and off at camp tonight, but the next 2 days look very nice.
It’s almost 11:00am and the forecast and the actual weather don’t match at all. Still raining, foggy, windy, and not getting any better. Worse if anything. Ed and I had breakfast at the restaurant decided to take a Zero day. There are 3 side trips we want to do and we won’t be able to see anything in this fog today. Therefore we decided to take a Zero day. Bonus with that is we won’t have to deal with wet tents tomorrow morning!
Rain, wind, fog all day. Things got worse up here all day. Apparently things are decent down in the valley.
Sunday, October 12, 2025. Up at 8:30. Windy and rainy and 50s.
Big storm last night. Rain and wind. We are decently sheltered from the worst of the wind coming in from the east by Hawks Bill cliffs. We can hear the wind roaring above us but it is not terrible where we are. However, we need to leave eventually and head north out of the shelter of the cliffs.
We decided to stay hunkered down a bit longer as radar shows a break in the rain about 10:00. It won’t get any warmer than it is now. We only have 4.4 miles to go and check-in isn’t until 4:00.
The temps went up more than I expected. It’s roughly 55, windy, foggy, light rain. The worst of the storm blew through in the night and stayed further offshore. Not a terrible hike but everything is wet. Looking forward to a shower, dry clothes, and to drying all our gear out.
Arrived at Skyland at 12:15. We will be taking a Nero day here and a late checkout tomorrow. Checked in but room will not be ready for an hour or two. Dumped our gear in the basement, put on a dry shirt, and got lunch at the restaurant.
Hung out and chatted with a nice older couple who live in Stanley, VA. That is right down in the valley from where we are. Also chatted with a group of 3 hikers on fall break from Michigan. They drove out here to hike Shenandoah for a few days. Had a very nice conversation with them and shared my blog address.
We got our room around 3:00. Ed and I both exploded all our gear in the room to dry things out. This is where a picture and a video are worth a thousand words.
Once we got things dry or drying, we headed back to the Tap Room for dinner and drinks. The restaurant and bar were packed! Had a nice dinner, grabbed some beverages to go from the lodge store, settled into our room for the evening. The fog/clouds are insane this evening. I can’t imagine driving out there this evening.
Tomorrow is a little up in the air depending on the weather. It should clear up about mid-day. The tentative plan is to get late breakfast and hit the trail at 11:00.
Saturday, October 11, 2025. Up at 7:45. Cold, cloudy, no wind. Sun should come out later this morning and get up to 60. Rain late this evening.
We had a group arrive at the shelter way after dark at 8:00. Noisy. But I could not sleep so no big deal. They left before sunrise this morning.
I forgot to open the vents on my tent last night and woke to a very wet inner then fly. Outside is dry but wet inside from condensation. Fully disassembled the inner and outer tent to keep the inner dry today. Hopefully the sun comes out and I dry the tent before the rains get here this evening.
On trail at 8:50. We have a .7 icky uphill then we get to have fun on the Bearfence Rock Scramble.
Bearfence rock scramble about 10:00. Lots of fun and lots of people. Mainly families. I always love this scramble and Ed really enjoyed it as well.
Chuck at BearfenceEd on Bearfence rock scramble
Had to make this little girl give us the trail at one point. Did not think she was going to budge.
Doe in Shenandoah
Stopped at Milam Gap parking area at noon to dry my tent on the grass. Only took 20 minutes in the full sun and light breeze.
Reached Big Meadows wayside for supplies and a Coke at 1:15. Very crowded with the holiday crowd. Pushed on to Big Meadows lodge at 2:00 to charge electronics and get a hot meal at the Tap Room. Talked to Pitcrew for a while. Had to wait until 2:30 for the tap room to open. I got 2 days with of blogs uploaded. Will catch up on the rest tomorrow at Sky Land. I had a pizza and beer and Ed had wings and beer. And all was right with the world.
We got sandwiches to go and headed out 3.8 miles to our campsite at 4:00. Reached Rock Spring Hut at 5:40. As I was afraid, no room at the inn. Must have been close to 20 people in an area that can hold 12-15 max.
We moved on to our alternate stealth camp site in the woods about .3 miles further north. Reached the camp spot at 6:10. We are moving fast as sunset is in 35 minutes. Decent spot in some trees just off trail underneath Hawks Bill rocks. Several dead trees so we tried to be careful about picking our exact tent sites as we will get wind and rain tonight. There is a nor’easter coming up the coast.
Had our carry out sandwiches for dinner in our tents at 6:50. Getting chilly fast.
About 7:20 a group of 4 hikers all with nice new shiny gear walked by using their head lamps. They took a wrong turn just past us and got off the AT onto a side trail. At least the figured that out and turned around fairly quickly. They must be headed to Rock Spring Hut where there is zero space to camp. I will be curious to see if they push on to who knows where or turn around and come back here. Night hiking can be tricky and hiking without a good plan even more so.
It was a nice short day with a fun rock scramble and a good hot meal. And a good alternate camp site. I love it when a plan comes together.
Friday, October 10, 2025. Up at 7:30. Cold, foggy, overcast, breezy. Got down to 38 last night. Sunny and upper 50s today.
On trail at 8:55. Fingers crossed we get one of the 30 spots at Lewis Campground.
Fairly easy morning. Uphill .7 miles to start but not bad. Chilly and breezy. Reached the Swift Run Gap, US 33 park entrance station at 10:30 and 3.68 miles. Walked to the entrance to get water and have second breakfast.
Ed and Chuck at US 33Swift Run Gap park entrance
Hiked 2 .2 miles uphill to South River Picnic Area at 12:00 for a snack and a rest. Still chilly, mostly cloudy even though forecast say sunshine. Oh well.
Tons of people here. Just about every parking spot taken. I guess it is a holiday weekend. Laughing at people who are disgusted by the park pit toilets. They are perfectly fine. LOL.
Back on trail at 12:30. Boring hike today with not much to see.
Arrived at Lewis Mountain campground at 2:45. It’s all booked up as I suspected. Got a soda and a sandwich as a late afternoon snack and chilled at the camp store for a bit. Picked up some resupply I probably did not need. Pushed on another mile to Bearfence Hut at 3:30.
We arrived at Bearfence Hut at 4:00. Nice little shelter and very nice tent pads. No cell service, but sheltered from the wind. Can’t have everything. Nobody else here once again.
Bearfence Hut
Ed and I had dinner about 6:00 then headed to our tents. It’s getting cold fast.
I have been worried about the weather on Sunday. It’s supposed to rain all day and the temperature is a wild card. It could be in the mid 50s on Sunday, but it will most definitely be in the 40s or worse Sunday night. I’ve done cold rain on trail for a few days at a time and it sucks big time. This is hypothermia weather.
I told Ed we need to start thinking about backup plans for Sunday. While we are equipped to survive this kind of weather, this isn’t a thru-hike and we are out here to enjoy ourselves. Not just to survive.
Ed texted with Lisa via satellite and she got us a room Sunday night at Skyland resort about 18 miles north on the AT. I thought there might be a chance of a room there. That’s the most expensive place in the park and usually the last to book up on weekends like this. We may have gotten the last room.
We will camp in the rain Saturday night then hike about 2.5 hours to Skyland and make like hiker trash in the lobby or elsewhere until we can checkin later in the afternoon. I can just imagine what that room will look like with two of us trying to dry out our gear in the hotel room. Brings back fond memories of my time in the Smokies on my thru-hike last spring.
Thursday, October 9, 2025. Up at 7:30. Upper 30s this morning going up to upper 50s today. Breezy.
Very windy last night but clear. Full
Moon was amazing. It was more light out at midnight than sunrise. Ate breakfast, packed up and headed to camp store for coffee at 8:50.
Breakfast at Loft Mountain camp store
We have a medium-hard 14.5 miles to go today to reach Hightop Hut.
Hard steep 1 mile climb out of Ivy Creek. My legs are feeling that one! Summited at 11:50 and 4 miles in.
Chuck at Ivy Creek
Stopped at the Ivy Creek Overlook on Skyline Drive at 12:00 for a short break. The leaves are turning colors just the past 72 hours.
Leaves turning in Shenandoah
Lots up solid uphills today. Getting a good workout.
Stopped at Simmons Gap Ranger Station for water at 1:50 and 8.4 miles in. Nobody here due to the government shutdown, but water pump works. Had to stop here on my thru-hike last year as well. Had lunch and got back on trail at 2:15. We have 6.4 miles to camp and the last 2 miles will be steep uphill.
Simmons Gap Ranger StationWater at Simmons Gap
Tough last 3.6 miles uphill. Not as nasty when I hiked to this same camp site last year in July in 95 degrees and 85% humidity!
Got to Hightop Hut at little after 5:00. We have it to ourselves. Got camp setup and filtered water. Real nice spot. No wind, unlike last night!
Hightop Hut campsite
One bar cell service. Called Pitcrew and chatted while I made dinner. It got COLD as soon as the fun set and the wind is picking up again. Freeze warning tonight.
Good day. I’m annoyed at my legs and hips. This hike should be easier than this. I suppose I deserve the pain done I took 2 weeks vacation right before this and got no exercise. One of these days I will learn.
Tomorrow should be a good day. 12.2 miles to Lewis Campground. It’s a Friday so we have our fingers crossed on getting a camp site. If not then we have another 1 mile to Bearfence Hut. Either way we will pick up dinner and snacks at the Lewis Mountain camp store. Should be there between 2:00 and 3:00.
Wednesday, October 8, 2025. Up at 8:00. Foggy, Dan, mid 60s going to mid 70s. Clearing this afternoon.
Rained on and off last night. Woke at 7:00 to heavy fog so I went back to sleep for a while.
Will have to pack up a wet tent and try to dry it if the sun comes out later afternoon. We camped on heavy leaves so at least stuff isn’t muddy! Broke down camp and got on trail about 9:15.
Reached the Riprap Trail parking area at 10:05 and 2.13 miles. Humid and breezy. Sun is trying to come out. Hopefully that helps with the humidity. Took the legs off my pants. Too humid for long pants and the weather gets better as the day progresses.
Reached Blackrock Gap at 11:20 and 5 miles. Got cloudy again. Overcast and breeze feels nice. Trail is nice except for the slippery wet leaves.
Chuck and Ed at Blackrock
Arrived at Blackrock Hut at 11:50. No water this year. This place was packed last year when we came through here in early July. Probably 12 other hikers minimum. We have 7.2 miles to reach Loft Mountain campground. Should be there by 4:00.
Blackrock Hut
Summited Blackrock at 12:50. Nice view to the west all the way across the Shenandoah valley.
Chuck on Blackrock summit
Quick break at Dundo Picnic Grounds at 1:45. Emptied trash and tested my feat. We have .7 miles downhill then 3.8 uphill to Loft Mountain campground. Probably 4:15.
Startled a doe about 2 miles from camp.
Startled a doe in Shenandoah
Got to Loft Mountain campground and checked in just before 4:00. Set up camp in a nice sunny spot. Tent was a bit damp but dried quickly.
Loft Mountain campground
Headed to camp store at 5:00 or dinner and 2 days resupply. Good selection. We both got cold sandwiches and beverages for dinner. Ramen and spam for resupply dinner plus snacks.
Ate dinner at camp and got into tent early. Getting cold fast and winds picking up. In bed at 7:00.
Good day. Legs and feet need more work, but getting there.
Tuesday, October 7, 2025. Up at 6:00. Clear, 60 going up to 80 with rain in the evening.
Had a nice breakfast at Mountain Home B&B. Our shuttle driver Scott shuttled us to Rockfish Gap near Waynesboro, VA at 7:00am. On trail at 9:10.
Ed and Chuck entering Shenandoah
First Skyline Drive crossing of many at McCormick Gap at 10:54 and 3.4 miles in. Good steady uphill hike so far today. Should stay that way until Bear Den Mountain.
Skyline Drive at McCormick Gap
Reached Bear Den Mountain and the communications towers at 11:30 and 4.8 miles. Good place for a rest and a snack. I always love the tractor seats set into the ground directly on the AT.
Bear Den communications towersTractor seats at Bear Den Mountain
Decent descent to Skyline Drive at Beagle Gap then back uphill to Little Calf Mountain. Summited Little Calf Mountain at 12:45. Nice workout. Winds picking up and sky’s are getting cloudy. Rain this evening.
Little Calf Mountain summit
Stopped at the spring just before the Calf Mountain Shelter for water at 1:30. This is our only water until tomorrow evening. Very dry out here. I am carrying 4.25 liters or 10lbs of water for hiking 8 more miles this afternoon, cooking tonight, and hiking 14 miles tomorrow. I like this better than our original plan of camping here, then going 2 more days to the next water. Makes for a long first day, but I prefer this plan.
Small world. We ran into Antlers. We hiked with him multiple times in Maine back in August. He is section hiking part of Shenandoah with 2 friends.
Ed, Chuck, Antlers in Shenandoah
This extra 5lbs sucks. I swear the added weight over about 25 lbs is NOT linear. More logarithmic in terms of how it feels!
Stopped for a short break at Sawmill Run overlook at 3:30. We have 4 miles to go all uphill from here. Both Ed and I are struggling with the extra water weight.
We found a set of stealth camping spots about one mile further than planned at 15.4 miles. Decent spot for 3 or 4 tents. We got here at 5:40.
Set up tents quickly as the rain started to arrive at 6:00. Made dinner in our tent vestibules due to rain.
Stealth camping in Shenandoah Cooking dinner in the tent vestibule
All snug in my tent, blogging, and reading at 7:30. Curious to see how much rain we get and how cold it gets.
Good hard day overall. Double our original plan, but I never liked that plan. The last 3 miles up to camp with all the heavy water was not fun, but no choice. Drought.
Hard day today sets us up for a much easier day tomorrow. About 13 miles to Loft Mountain campground where we hope to get a camping spot in the camp ground.
