Up at 8:00. Rained and thunderstormed massively last night. Spent the morning doing chores: laundry, duct-taped handle on CNOC, cleaned my pack, sorted resupply box, replaced my worn-out gloves with new ones Dana sent me.
I spent the afternoon working on blog updates and planning out my next few resupplies.
I heard from Mike. He got to Damascus. He aqua-blazed Lake Watauga. Cool.
Shuttled into town and bought a knee brace and got dinner at Taco Bell.
Bought a new heavy knee brace at Walgreens. Made a sleeve to go under the brace out of a pair of super stretchy yoga pants I found in the hiker box. It will do.
My new knee brace in Erwin
Got to sleep around midnight. Miles to go tomorrow.
“God damn, well I declare, have you seen the like? Their walls are built of cannon balls Their motto is “don’t” tread on me”
Come hear Uncle John’s Band, playing to the tide Come with me or go alone He’s come to take his children home” – The Grateful Dead
A slight chance of rain showers after 5 p.m. Partly sunny. High near 81, with temperatures falling to around 78 in the afternoon. South wind 0 to 5 mph. Chance of precipitation is 20%. New rainfall amounts less than a tenth of an inch possible.
Up at 7:15. Got both my slackpack and big pack packed up. Went to the common room for breakfast and checked out of the hostel. Had 2 cups of coffee….woohoo! Headed out on shuttle at 8:30.
Overkill and I got dropped off by Amy at Spivey Gap at 9:00.
Amy from Nature’s Inn next to Overkill
Amy took a picture of me and Overkill before saying goodbye. Overkill is the one on the left.
Overkill and Orane Man at Spivey Gap
Just 11.1 mostly downhill miles to Erwin with a 1-mile climb at the very start. Should be an easy day.
The things you run into on the trail.
Ferris Wheel in a tree … why?Ferris Wheel in a tree … creepy
We stopped at 11:30 for a snack and water at No Business Shelter. Making a solid 2 mph.
No Business Shelter
Ran into the two older guys and their dog who are slackpacking. This is the 6th day in a row I have run into them. They are basing out of Laughing Heart in Hot Springs. Very cool.
Back on the trail at 12:20. Just shy of halfway for the day.
The view down on the river and rail bridge in Erwin reminds me a lot of Harpers Ferry.
Chuck overlooking Erwin TN valley
Took a nice video of the valley and the town from one mile out.
Made it to Uncle Johnny’s in Erwin, TN at 5:20. Unpacked, got my laundry ready (will do chores tomorrow morning), showered, and borrowed loaner clothes.
Welcome to Erwin, TNWelcome to Uncle Johnny’s Hostel
Overkill is just here for one night and staying in the bunk house. I’m here two nights and have a nice room with AC and a fridge!
Private room at Uncle Johnny’s
I had two supply boxes waiting for me. One is food/meds and the other is a new pair of shoes. Thank you, Dana! Old on the left and new on the right.
Out with the old and in with the new
Overkill and I took a shuttle into town at 5:00. Had mediocre Mexican food and picked up some supplies for tonight and breakfast. Shuttled back to hostel at 6:45.
I said goodnight and goodbye to Overkill. She will be leaving early tomorrow. We agreed to keep in touch. Odds are good I catch up with her in 3-5 days.
I spent some time trying to plan my next week on the trail. It’s complicated. The weather looks bad and there is a lot of bear activity in the area I had planned to camp two nights from now. Plus, I need to be somewhere that Dana can pick me up on Thursday evening. Currently, it looks like I will be nowhere near a road Thursday night. Gotta work on all that.
Had a video call with Dana and we tweaked the resupply box she is shipping tomorrow. Thanks, Dana!!
I watched YouTube till 1:00 a.m. and finally fell asleep.
“Goin’ down hill, you got me goin’ down hill. And still I can’t get my fill of you.” – John Anderson
Sunny, with a high near 67. West wind 5 to 15 mph, with gusts as high as 20 mph.
Up at 6:50. Dozed back off till 8:00. Out of camp at 9:40. Looks like a real nice day. No clouds and warming up to 65 and dropping 3300 feet in elevation. Mostly downhill today. Should be to camp by 4:30.
Stopped at an overlook for some pictures of Pigeon Forge and on to Knoxville in the distance. Had cell service so I ordered red pepper flake packets from Amazon. Will arrive at home tomorrow. I’ll have Dana send me those and a new pair of shoes to Erwin, TN. Will be there in about 6 or 7 days.
Pigeon Forge and on to Knoxville in the distancePigeon Forge and on to Knoxville in the distancePigeon Forge and on to Knoxville in the distance
It never ceases to amaze me how much temperature can change with a little elevation difference. Back home I get roughly 500 to 700 feet of elevation difference between my house and my normal day hiking spots on the AT in Maryland and Pennsylvania. Just that small elevation change can have a 5-10 degree temperature difference and cross the rain/snow boundary. Out here I’m dealing with elevation changes in the 3000 to 4000 foot range and temperature swings of almost 40 degrees.
Stopped at the abandoned helipad at 11:00 for a snack and a video. Now I start the BIG descent out of the Smokies. Interesting that I’m feeling a little regret about that given how crappy the last week in the Smokies has been. Guess it goes to show what two good days in a row can do !
Stopped at Crosby Knob Shelter at 1:30. Did some maintenance on my feet and socks, had lunch, topped off water, and rested up. Have not finalized my destination for today. If I feel good, I may go past Davenport Gap Shelter and tent outside the park tonight. Will see how I feel in 4 more hours.
I got my last good view of the Smoky Mountains at 4:30.
Deposited my backcountry permit and exited the Smokies at 6:20. Made a really good time today. Bittersweet feelings about leaving the Smokies.
Exiting GSMNPNext stops after the Smokies
Made camp at 7:00 about 2 miles outside the park. Very cool unofficial campsite with a fast-moving stream splitting the site in half. I’m camped on one bank of the stream, and a young man that I have met several times since Fontana is on the other bank. Good cell service.
Ate dinner at 8:00. Got a hot dog from my neighbor camper to go along with my chicken and rice. Called Dana after dinner and chatted for a while.
Rain starts tomorrow afternoon and goes till Saturday. I want to get into Hot Springs early on Wednesday. To make that happen, I need to make big miles. I’m going to try for Roaring Fork Shelter 17.5 miles away tomorrow. Decent amount of uphill tomorrow as well.
Day 29 Map – Tri-Corner Knob Shelter to Cascades Tent Site
“I’m on the top of the world looking down on creation. And the only explanation I can find. Is the love that I’ve found, ever since you’ve been around…” – Carpenters
Mostly sunny, with a high near 54. Northwest wind 15 to 25 mph. New rainfall amounts less than a tenth of an inch possible.
Last night sucked. Very cold and damp. I don’t think anybody got much sleep. Up at 7:00. Laid in bed till 7:30 so the sun would burn through the fog. Made tea and had pop-tarts and Fritos. I’m dry and a little chilly. Today should be easy. Gonna wait till it warms up a bit to head out. May leave thermals on until I hit a shelter with a privy. Peck’s Corner is at 7.4 miles….approximately 1:00.
Heard from Mike. He marathoned into Hot Springs last night and is taking a zero at Laughing Heart Hostel.
Gotta conserve battery to make it 6 days to Hot Springs. Not using my Apple Watch anymore. Got out of camp at 9:00. Still cold but the sun is finally out.
Icewater Spring ShelterHiking in the sun in GSMNP…finally
I reached Charlie’s Bunion about 9:45. Pictures just don’t do justice to the view and the STEEP drop-off from this massive rock formation.
Made camp at 4:40 at Tri-Corner shelter. It’s a large shelter with a heavy tarp over the front to keep wind out and heat in. One older gentleman with a tent setup and 2 others in the shelter. I got one bar of cell service.
Tri-Corner shelterTri-Corner shelter
Got my sleep space set up, hung a clothesline to dry sweaty clothes, and ate a bag of Fritos. It’s getting cloudy and there is a chance of showers this evening. Nothing terrible, but it’s also getting cold again. It’s dropping into the low 40s and breezy. The elevation here is 5887 feet. My hands are cold, but I have light gloves and heavy gloves.
Ate dinner at 5:50. I want to get into the shelter and my quilt as soon as it’s getting cold fast. I’m in bed at 7:00.
Earlier today, I got a text from Lolly. She was still not feeling well and decided to halt her hike. She was section hiking to Erwin, TN, but Newfound Gap was as far as she felt she could go.
This was a really good day. Maybe the best hiking and views so far on the trail. It was the first time I really got to enjoy the amazing views in the Smoky Mountains. And no ridiculous verticals.
Day 28 Map – Icewater Spring Shelter to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter
“On the road again. Goin’ places that I’ve never been. Seein’ things that I may never see again. And I can’t wait to get on the road again” – Willie Nelson
A chance of rain showers between 8 a.m. and 2 p.m., then a chance of showers and thunderstorms. Partly sunny. High near 57, with temperatures falling to around 52 in the afternoon. Northwest wind 15 to 30 mph. Chance of precipitation is 50%. New rainfall DP pop amounts between a tenth and quarter of an inch possible.
Up at 8:46. Showered and packed, then went to Flapjacks for a quick breakfast. Shuttle picked me up at 10:00. Lolly got picked up before me. We got dropped off at Clingman’s Dome visitor parking lot. Great view down to Fontana Dam. We hiked to Clingman’s Dome tower and got there at 11:00.
Looking back at Fontana from Clingman’s
Lolly was not feeling well and moving slowly. We parted ways after about 1 mile. She was still not feeling well and did not want me to wait for her. She has plenty of bailout points if needed. I pushed on, making good time towards Newfound Gap. I summited Mount Collins at 12:45.
Crossed through a gate designed to keep wild hogs out at 2:40. And it started sleeting…or is it hail when the pellets are the size of small peas?
Wild hogs keep out
Reached Newfound Gap at 3:15. Talked to a couple of backcountry patrol folks who just wanted to make sure everything was okay. Had a snack, took a picture, at the TN / NC border sign, and headed up the trail. Got 3 more miles to Icewater Shelter.
Crossing the NC/TN border at Newfound GapWelcome to Newfound Gap
Sleeted and rained on and off on the way to the shelter.
Got to Icewater Spring shelter at 5:00. There are 9 others here, including a ridge runner. We are in a cloud with drizzle. No working privy up here. Cold, windy, and damp. 5900 feet elevation here. Going down to 30. Got my filter in my sleeping bag to keep from freezing. It’s uncomfortably cold and damp!
Icewater Spring Shelter
Ate at 6:00, then got into my quilt and put on all my layers, my buff, and gloves. Mornings are going to suck.
Cold night at Icewater Spring
Texted with Dana. Just trying to stay warm! May put on my rain jacket to sleep and stay warm. Gonna wear the heavy sealskin gloves to sleep. 7:30 in bed.
Tomorrow looks easy. Good weather and 12.6 miles without a lot of big hills.
Day 27 Map – Clingman’s Dome to Icewater Spring Shelter
I’m going to just hit the highlights for my double zero in Gatlinburg. Lolly and I decided to take two days off once we saw the weather forecast.
Wednesday – heavy rain and thunderstorms
Thursday – severe thunderstorms, 2 inches of rain, flood warnings
I physically don’t need a double. But with that much rain forecast plus what the last 5 days have been like, I’ll take two days.
Oh yes, and it turns out I got poison ivy on my lower legs and arms yesterday due to … an emergency bathroom stop on the trail. And I have a blister on my right foot. And I picked up some kind of trench foot. Ran back to Walgreens for meds for the poison ivy and trench foot. Will see how much both of those heal up by Friday morning.
Lolly and I are splitting a shuttle back to Clingman’s Dome at 10:00 Friday morning. Using Starr shuttle service.
Shuttle Service from Gatlinburg
On Wednesday I took Gatlinburg’s free trolley service to a laundromat and washed everything that I was not currently wearing. I think I looked like a homeless guy. I’m not shaving until I finish this adventure. The couple sitting at the laundromat got up and moved away from me when I took off the socks I was wearing, put them in the wash, and put my shoes back on with no socks.
“And they all moved away from me on the bench there, and gave me the hairy eyeball and all kinds of mean nasty things” – Alice’s Restaurant
Laundry in Gatlinburg
And the moment I leave the laundromat to wait at the trolley stop, guess what happens? Really….I will give you 3 guesses!
More rain in Gatlinburg
Ran into 3 hikers that I’ve been leapfrogging for the past week on the trolley on the way back to the hotel. Chatted a bit about the weather and plans for getting back on the trail.
Got back to the room, lanced my blister, and bandaged it up.
Didn’t do much on Thursday. Stopped at the local outfitter and bought one more good load-bearing carabiner. Tossed the cheap piece of junk carabiner that broke on me a few days ago. You get what you pay for.
Took the trolley to the post office and shipped 2 pounds 11 ounces of stuff home. Remember from my pre-hike blogs, weight is everything! Shipping out some cold weather gear, some miscellaneous gear, and some food I don’t need. I still have some cold weather gear, just not as much…I’m learning. One thing to note is that I’m sending my insulated puffy jacket home. That is the big black thing in the picture below. I have only worn it twice. I wear my fleece much more often and I can put my heavy rain coat on over the fleece if it is cold enough or windy. I’ve slept in the fleece several times on really cold/damp nights.
Shipping home from Gatlinburg
I washed my inflatable sleeping pad. It really reeked!
I spent a lot of time today revising my schedule based on lessons learned to date. I’ve got it updated up to Harper’s Ferry. I’ll post that along with blog updates shortly.
After that, I finished writing up all the blogs for the past 6 days. I will post them later tonight after dinner. This entire half of town has no internet service today. All the businesses are struggling and using backup systems or cash only. Supposed to be fixed soon, but still no internet service at the hotel as of 7:30 Thursday night. At least I have good cell service.
“Rain, rain, go away, Come again another day” – English Nursery Rhyme
Up at 6:30. Cold and wet. Packed up and got out of camp at 7:30. It rained again at 7:35…..of course.
This will be a short 4.5-mile hike to Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the Appalachian Trail at 6612 feet. It is my first 6000-footer and it also marks the 200-mile mark (actually 200.3). So it’s a trifecta!
On the ascent, things change to dense spruce-fir forest. Between that and the rain and fog, it feels like Narnia.
View on ascent of Clingman’s DomeFir trees on Clingman’s Dome
Made Clingman’s Dome observation tower at 10:15. See stock photo below because I’m in a cloud and can barely see the tower today!
Clingman’s Dome Observation Tower
I’m sitting here watching the tourists and waiting for Lolly before I go up the tower. Lolly got here about 10:45. Faster than I had expected. She is just as done with this weather as I am. We climbed the ramp to the tower and took some quick photos. It’s windy and we are wet and cold. I’m wearing my rain jacket for warmth and to block the wind.
We hiked the 1/2 mile down to the visitor center and parking lot to wait for our shuttle. Picked up a snack at the visitor center just to break the monotony of my snack food. Ran into Moses and another young guy whose name I can’t remember at the parking lot. Zero cell service. They have been trying to hitch a ride to Gatlinburg. I hit up my shuttle driver on my Garmin to see if we could fit all four of us, and he responded that he could. Traveling Lite Shuttle service picked us up at 12:15, and we headed to Gatlinburg! I called shotgun. Shuttle also brought me my resupply box, which is how this adventure originally started.
Got down to Gatlinburg about 1:00. Checked into the Reagan Inn….bless them for having room available! Unpacked sloppily and walked a block to Walgreens to look for some cheap flip-flops. Ended up with my lovely new camp shoes, Pringles, chili Fritos, and a 12-pack! Talk about one-stop shopping.
I washed my Hokas out in the bathtub and rigged them on the room heater to dry with my tent poles holding them in place. Cranked it up to 77 degrees and fan on high.
improvised shoe dryer in Gatlinburg
I got EVERYTHING unpacked and set out to dry. Sorted my remaining food as well as my resupply box contents. I’m good on food to get me out of the Smokies and to Hot Springs.
Drying out in GatlinburgDrying tent on the patio in GatlinburgResupply in Gatlinburg
Took a loooooong hot shower and a short nap. Eventually made my way a block to one of our favorite Gatlinburg restaurants….Howards. I had a large appetizer, nice T-bone steak, mushrooms, broccoli, chocolate cake, two Fireball shots, and several seltzers. And I’m still hungry.
Dinner and Dessert at Howard’s Restaurant
Walked back to the hotel and had a call with Dana, then fell asleep watching TV.
Day 24 Map – Siler’s Bald Shelter to Clingman’s Dome
