Tag: 2024

“The legend lives on from the Chippewa on down

Of the big lake they call Gitche Gumee

The lake, it is said, never gives up her dead

When the skies of November turn gloomy

With a load of iron ore twenty-six thousand tons more

Than the Edmund Fitzgerald weighed empty

That good ship and true was a bone to be chewed

When the gales of November came early” – Gordon Lightfoot

Up at 7:00. Very short day, so I’m in no rush. On trail at 8:35.

Mid 40s going up to mid 60s. Partly cloudy.

Reached the Kennebec River about 10:30. The trail crosses the river and the canoe ferry takes you across. There is a white blaze on the canoe. Very iconic part of the AT adventure. Dana and I have watched countless videos of this canoe crossing. So cool to actually make the voyage myself.

Once I got to the other side of the river, I walked down Route 201 a quarter mile to get coffee and a sandwich. Guess who I ran into? Overkill was sitting there finishing her beverage. Six of us shuttled the mile from here to the Sterling Inn for a Nero. 

Checked into the Sterling Inn about 11:15. Nice little Inn with laundry and a great resupply store. Neroing today. Need shower and laundry badly. Well over a week without laundry. My clothes and I stink.

Talked to Dana for a while. Then did a few blog updates and worked on logistics for the next week or so. Still need to plan my route home. 

Shuttled up the road at 5:00 to the Kennebec River Brewery for dinner. The shuttle will bring us back at 7:00. Full breakfast in the morning is included. We will probably head to the trail at 8:00.

Technical Notes:

• Pop Tarts: 370
• Snickers: 220
• Dr Pepper: 150
• Sausage egg bagel: 710
• Latte: 300
• Root beer: 160
• Root beer: 160
• Salami: 100
• Fatty beef stick: 190
• Misc: 2500
• Water: 0
• Miles: 4
• Time: 2
• Elevation gain: 183
• Calories consumed: 4800
• Calories burned: 1500

“My Nashville friends, they think I’m strange

To make my home out on the range

They think it’s nothin’ but a God-forsaken land

Why don’t you bring your guitar and family, move on down to Tennessee?

Well, I just smile ’cause they don’t understand

But if they ever saw a sunrise on a mountain mornin’

And watched those cotton candy clouds go by

Then they’d know why I live beneath these western skies” – Chris Ledoux

Up at 7:00. Finished packing and made coffee at the hostel and had breakfast while waiting for my 8:30 shuttle. On trail at 9:20.

Foggy, low 50s, humid. Going up to mid 60s and partly cloudy.

Stopped at West Carry Pond Lean-to for a snack at 11:00 and 3.5 miles. It’s muddy and slippery out here from the heavy rain yesterday mixed with all the leaves. Fairly flat most of the next few days. Making good time.

Hiked the perimeter of West Carry Pond for a few hours.

Crossing a swamp at 12:15 and 5.7 miles.

Short logging road walk to a crossroads.

YouTube Video of hiking in northern Maine

Got to Pierce Pond Lean-to at 3:30. About 5 tents already set up. Lots of weekend hikers. Found a so-so tent spot. 

I’m already fed and in my quilt at 5:00. Not used to being done this early. It was 13.5 miles today, but only took 6 hours as it’s very flat. First time I’ve had flat hiking in a very long time. Gonna be mostly flat the next 3-4 days into Monson, Maine. Need to recalibrate my time and mileage.

If you look at a map of this area, I am really in the middle of nowhere. The nearest towns make Poolesville look like a big city, and those are 30 miles away or more. There is almost no moon.    I looked up at the stars at 8:00, and I have not seen so many stars since being way out in the Caribbean with all the lights below the horizon. And it’s only 8:00! 

Quebec City is just off the map to the top left in the photo below. There is nothing but little villages that are basically crossroads until you cross into Canada. Every one of those towns on that screenshot is over the border from Maine in Canada. The nearest is 75 miles away and over at least 2 mountain ranges. That’s how remote this area is. I could soooo live up here!

Glad I’m not on the trail down south. AT weather alert today:

9/25/2024 The southern end of the AT in Georgia, North Carolina, Tennessee, and extreme southern Virginia is forecast to receive 8 to 12 inches of rain over the next several days in addition to tropical storm force winds (40 to 60 mph) as Hurricane Helene impacts the region.

Technical Notes:

• Pop Tarts 370
• Snickers 250
• Sausage 120
• Oreo 320
• Salami 300
• Chicken Fried Rice 600
• Misc 2000
• Water .7
• Miles 13.5
• Time 6
• Elevation gain 1566
• Calories consumed 4000
• Calories burned 5500

Cold, rainy day. Good call on taking today off. The weather looks good for the next 5 days, which will get me into Monson, Maine, at the start of the 100-mile wilderness on 9/30 or 10/1.

Worked on blogs. I am finally up to date on them!

Finalized my plans for Monson and booked my stay with 100 Mile Wilderness Adventures. Got a private cabin. They will work with me on shuttles and other details for my trek in the 100-mile wilderness.

Starting to work on Katahdin summit plans and getting home plans.

Did a resupply at the gas station market. Got mostly packed up. Arranged a shuttle for 8:30 tomorrow morning. Had dinner at Longfellow’s again.

Technical Notes:

• Hostess cupcakes: 640
• Fritos: 360
• Doritos: 1350
• Misc: 400 
• Water: 0
• Miles: 0
• Time: 0
• Elevation gain: 0
• Calories consumed: 
• Calories burned: 

“Then cold rain out on the streets

I am all alone

With cold rain down on my face

I am heading home” – Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young

Up at 7:30. It was. On trail at 8:30.

 Cloudy, low 50s, very humid, rain later

It was cold last night. Still calling for rain tomorrow. I have about 11 miles today with two good climbs. Doesn’t look too bad. My ride should pick me up at 4:00-4:30 and take me to the Terrapin Hostel in Kingsfield. I need a good resupply. After the hike today all I will have left is two dinners and some sausage snacks.

Rain started at 12:00 as I got to Spaulding Mountain Lean-to. Temps dropped and wind picked up. Stopped briefly to put on rain gear.

Passed by the monument to the official end of the AT from 1937.

Last 2.5 miles was HARD. Nasty steep rocky descent off Sugarloaf Mountain. Had to butt slide and rock scramble. The rain and clouds made that extra special. Finally wrapped up at a river crossing just before Caribou Pond Rd. Crossed the 2000-mile mark on that descent.

Hiked a mile down Caribou Pond rd to the gate and met my shuttle driver, Jackie, at 3:00. This road is barely passable. Really appreciate her picking me up and understand why a lot of drivers won’t come up here. We stopped at a gas station convenience store on the way for snacks and adult beverages.

Arrived at Terrapin Hostel in Kingsfield  around 3:45.  Confirmed heavy rain tomorrow and asked about extending my stay. The only thing available tomorrow is the bunk room. Beggars can’t be choosers, so I’ll move to the shared room tomorrow morning at 10:00.

Really exhausted, so I took a nap for 90 minutes then walked to the restaurant in town for a nice dinner. I will stop at the gas station convenience store on my way home after dinner. I plan to talk to Dana about 8:00.

Tomorrow I’ll do 6 days of blogs and finalize my plans for the rest of my trip !

Technical Notes:

• Pop tart 370
• Figs 500
• Fatty beef stick 190
• Snickers 440
• Reese’s 500
• Fritos 480
• Misc 1000
• Dinner 2000
  • Chicken Florentine
  • Stuffed mushrooms 
  • Rice
  • Broccoli
• Water 1.4
• Miles 10.5
• Time 6:30
• Elevation gain 3154
• Calories consumed 6000
• Calories burned 5500

“Well, it’s okay, it’s so nice

It’s just another day in paradise

Well, there’s no place that I’d rather be

Well, it’s two hearts and one dream

I wouldn’t trade it for anything

And I ask the Lord every night, ooh

For just another day in paradise” – Phil Vassar

Up at 6:15. Had breakfast with hostel owners, then drove to the trail at 7:30. On the trail at 8:00.

Mostly sunny, mid-50s.

Stopped at Piazza Rock Lean-to at 1.8 miles to use the privy.  Nice shelter. Ran into some folks I met at Pine Ellis Hostel. Back on the trail at 9:05

Stopped for a second breakfast by Eddy Pond at 10:10 and 3.8 miles in. I have the big 2-mile climb up Saddleback Mountain right after this.

Summited Saddleback at 11:35 in clouds and cold.

YouTube Video 360 from Saddleback Mountain 

YouTube video a second view from Saddleback Mountain 

Now I go down and across the ridge and up to the summit of The Horn.

Summited The Horn at 12:45.

Summited Saddleback Junior at 2:10.

Reached Poplar Ridge Lean-to at 3:00 and 10.7 miles. Knees are tired, but I’m pushing on 2.7 more miles to Sluice Brook Logging Road. It’s too early to stop, plus it will make tomorrow shorter.

Stopped to fill up on water at 4:40. The logging road is only .1 miles away, but this might be the last water.

Made camp at Sluice Brook Logging Road at 4:55. No cell. Two other people are camping on the road as well. Nice brook right across the trail. Very nice spot. Made dinner at 5:45. Gonna be chilly tonight.

Interesting fact about part of my hike today and where I am tenting tonight. The Navy’s Survival, Evasion, Resistance, and Escape (SERE) School has a field training area that straddles the AT. They particularly like to use it in the winter according to locals. In the photo below, the heavy red line is the AT and the red hashed area is the SERE training area. 

Technical Notes:

• Bagel with butter 500
• Oreo 160
• Cheese crackers 260
• Snickers 440
• Figs 500
• Sausage 165
• Salami 300
• Ramen 370 
• Dehydrated chicken 170
• Pop tart 370
• Water .7
• Miles 13.5
• Time 9
• Elevation gain 4284
• Calories consumed 3200
• Calories burned 6700

“Widow Maker, Widow Maker

Were the words so bright and big

Painted ‘cross the bumper

Of a shiny rig” – Jimmy Martin & The Sunny Mountain Boys

Up at 5:40. Finished packing and had breakfast. Shuttle picked up at 6:30. Stopped at Mills Market for coffee. Got to trail at 7:20.

Sunny, mid-50s, nice day.

Shuttle pickup at 3:00 with 13 miles to go. Need to move at a good pace today.

Rangeley lakes from Rt 17 overlook at trailhead.

Lots of noise from logging operations. I guess I’ll be hearing this a lot the next week or so. 

I’m in lake country for the next few days. Waters are incredibly clear.

Lots of bogs today as well.

That’s the definition of a widow maker. That’s a nice tent site other than the top half of the tree ready to crash into it.

At 1:45 I texted the host that I was 1 mile from the pickup point at ME Rt 4.

Got picked up at 2:30 and arrived at Camp 43 hostel by 3:00. We are in Rangeley, Maine. Very touristy town. Boating and hiking in summer, snowmobiling and skiing in winter. 

Brand new custom barn/garage with great owners. I have it all to myself tonight. Owner is retired and built this huge place himself other than the framing over the past year. Owner will run me to town for dinner whenever I’m ready. Maybe 5 minutes away.

Ordered dinner at 5:00 from local market. Planning on some leftovers for tomorrow. 

Oops. So much for leftovers 🙂

Technical Notes:

• Mini donuts 560
• Snickers 220
• Fatty sausage 190
• Kind bar 160
• Coke 140
• Fritos 480
• Sausage 160
• Twix 250
• Dinner 2000
• Misc 630
• Water .7
• Miles 13
• Time 7:15
• Elevation gain 2252
• Calories consumed 5000
• Calories burned 6100

“My old Blue, he was a good old hound

You could hear him hollering miles around

When I get to Heaven first thing I’ll do

Is grab my horn and call for Blue” – The Byrds 

Up at 6:30. Shuttled to trail at 7:20. On trail at 7:40.

Partly cloudy, mid-60s. A bit humid and breezy.

Another day, another rebar ladder climb.

Nice view part way up Old Blue mountain looking southeast, down the valley of Black Brook to Ellis Pond. Love the low clouds in the valley.

Summited Old Blue mountain (3600 feet) at 9:35 and 2.8 miles in. Windy and chilly up here. Almost above tree line.

WTF. I’ve been dealing with lots of blowdowns for the last mile. Just keep getting worse.

Summited Bemis Mountain at 12:55 and  7 miles. I have 6.3 miles to go. It got very cold and spit rain for a while about 30 minutes ago. Seems better on this side of the mountain.

Nice view onto the series of lakes to the west. 

Reached Bemis Mountain Second Peak at 1:50. Called into the hostel to confirm pickup in 2 hours. Got 3.1 miles to go.

Arrived at ME 17 at 3:33. Sat down and looked over the Rangeley lakes. Tough hike the last 3 miles. Hard rocky downhills and a hard .7 mile climb up to the road. Some NOBOs here I have not seen since NY or earlier.

Shuttle picked me up at 4:00. Took 40 minutes to get to the hostel. 

Today’s 13.3 miles were harder than I expected. It was that final 3 that was a lot nastier than I expected. Tomorrow is 13 miles but half the elevation changes and nothing nasty other than maybe the first mile. I’m getting picked up at 3:00 so I’ve got a hard deadline tomorrow. Need to get on the trail earlier.

Weather looks okay next week for 2 days, then rain on Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday. Ick 🙁 just not feeling like hiking. I’m ready to be done.

Celebrating my third and final night at Pine Ellis Hostel in Andover with the seafood platter at Mills Market. Eaten here 3 nights in a row as it’s all there is. My kind of place 🙂

Got shuttles and hostel arranged for Wednesday evening. 

Technical Notes:

• Pop Tarts 370
• Oreo 160
• Oreo 160
• Snickers 440
• Fatty Beef Stick 190
• Root Beer 260
• Seafood Platter 1300
• Misc 2000
• Water 1.7
• Miles 13.3
• Time 7:15
• Elevation Gain 4409
• Calories Consumed 4800
• Calories Burned 6100

“I laid in bed that night and thought about the day

And how my life is like a roller coaster ride

The ups and downs and crazy turns along the way

It’ll throw you off if you don’t hold on tight

You can’t really smile until you’ve shed some tears

I could die today or I might live on for years” – Darryl Worley

Up at 7:00. Slackpacking today! Quick breakfast and shuttle picked me up at 7:30. On trail by 7:45.

Mostly cloudy, low 60s.

New friend. These little batards are loud and get pissy when you walk by their nests. Not like squirrels back home.

Surplus Pond and Surplus Pond Road at 8:50 and 1.8 miles in. Quiet morning, making good time. 

View from the top of Wyman Mountain at 10:10 and 4.7 miles in. Weather is not looking like it should. Winds kicking up and temps dropping. Stopped for a snack. Back on trail at 10:30.

Pretty mellow day so far. Have not had any of those in a while. But I know it’s gonna change this afternoon.

Stopped at Hall Mountain Lean-to for a quick break at 11:15. One bar of cell service. Only have 4 miles to go, but the next 2.5 miles are very nasty.

The first descent was easy. Pleasantly surprised. Next comes the nasty ascent up Moody Mountain.

It wouldn’t be a climb in Maine without rebar

Summited Moody Mountain at 1:20. Hard climb but not as hard as I expected. Called the hostel for pickup in one hour.

Finished at 2:10. Rope line assist over creek at end. Shuttle was waiting for me.

That was a much easier and faster day than I had expected. I finished 2 hours faster than planned. A month ago, part of today’s climb would have intimidated me. Now it’s just like, is that all you got for me?

I got back to the hostel about 2:30. I grabbed a shower and started laundry.

Technical Notes:

• Pop Tarts: 370
• Snickers: 220
• Fatty Beef Stick: 190
• Cheese Crackers: 250
• Snickers: 440
• Oreo: 160
• Potato Chips: 980
• Dr Pepper: 260
• Parm Sub: 1000
• Wings: 500
• Misc: 600
• Water: 1.4
• Miles: 10.1
• Time: 6:25
• Elevation Gain: 3272
• Calories Consumed: 5000
• Calories Burned: 5725

“I said, “Hey, hey, you, you, get off of my cloud

Hey, hey, you, you, get off of my cloud

Hey, hey, you, you, get off of my cloud

Don’t hang around ’cause two’s a crowd

On my cloud baby” – The Rolling Stones

Up at 7:00. Packed and had breakfast at the hotel. Shuttle driver Rodney picked me up at 8:00 and drove 30 minutes to the trail. Rode with 2 of the girls I was hiking around the previous 2 days on the trail. They are going ahead of me about a day and slackpacking. On the trail at 8:40.

Light rain, mid-50s, clearing mid-morning and going up to mid-60s. Very humid.

I’m carrying heavy on food (2.5 days) in case I don’t hostel each night this week. Also, I love the new knee brace. No nasty Velcro to chew up my leg and fits better under long pants.

The ascent out of Grafton Notch is going to suck due to the wet rocks. Very slippery rock scrambles.

Only have 10 miles today, but it’s a steep up and down. Guessing 4:30.

Wow. Did the first 1.7 miles in an hour flat. Steep hard workout, but some switchbacks and plenty of rock stairs so far. Easier than the past few days. 

Summited Baldpate Mountain (3664 feet) at 10:40 and 3.1 miles in. Climbed up into and then above the clouds. All the leaves falling off trees coupled with damp rocks makes for slippery conditions. Sun is starting to burn through. Took a snack break until 11:00.

I love how the trail just disappears into the clouds. Have not seen another person on the trail yet today.

Lots of patches of slanted rock. Slick as hell when wet.

Following the little grey cairns that blend into the clouds. Very, very UP.

Summited Baldpate East (3812 feet) at 11:37 and 4 miles in. Making great time.

I’m descending towards my destination for the day, but going back down into thicker clouds. Just keep following the cairns.

That was very slippery.

Stopped at Frye Notch Lean-to at 1:00 for a break. The worst of the steep, slippery rocks are behind me, I think. I go over Surplus Mountain next. Not a big mountain but still a mountain. I’m supposed to call the hostel from there as that is the only cell service the rest of today. I have zero cell service now. I’ll have 4 miles all downhill to go from Surplus Mountain.

Called the hostel at 1:40 and arranged pickup in 4 miles or 2 hours. Got to the road at 3:40 or in 2 hours exactly. Talked to some other hikers for maybe 10 minutes and then my shuttle picked me up. It was maybe a 15-minute drive to the hostel.

Pine Ellis hostel is interesting. Not my favorite, but I’ve had worse. 

Technical Notes:

• OJ 150
• Fruit 250
• Hohos 250
• Hohos 250
• Hohos 250
• Oreo 160
• Kind bar 160
• Root beer 260
• Bacon cheeseburger 900
• Onion rings 300
• Misc 1300
• Water .7
• Miles 10.3
• Time 7
• Elevation gain 3621
• Calories consumed 4300
• Calories burned 5500

“We’re caught in a trap

I can’t walk out

Because I love you too much, baby

Why can’t you see

What you’re doing to me

When you don’t believe a word I say?” – Elvis

I planned this Zero day for quite a while. I need a break after finishing the Whites and starting Maine. I’m beat up physically and mentally. 

And so is my gear:( The knee brace I bought at a Walgreens in Erwin, Tennessee, has given me great service, but I have been keeping it together with duct tape for the past 1500 miles. I definitely got my money’s worth out of it. Sad to see you go, but I had a newer model shipped to the Inn where I am staying.

I got a much-needed haircut just down the street from the Inn this morning. This will take care of me until I get home. My hair had gotten quite long, for me anyway.

I did some resupply shopping at the local market and got a bunch of blogs posted. 

I have 267 miles to go, including the 100-mile wilderness and the summiting of Katahdin. The canoe ferry across the Kennebec River shuts down after September 30. A lot of hostels are closing real soon or have already closed. In addition, I am struggling to stay motivated most mornings. I am really ready to be done and to get home after more than 5 months of hiking. Being solo for the last 1.5 months isn’t helping either.

I spent a LOT of time today doing route planning and made some big decisions. I have hostels and camp sites lined up for the next 70 miles, which takes me just past mile marker 2000. After that, I am skipping ahead 28 miles to guarantee that I get across the Kennebec River before the ferry closes for the season. I will then hike 2 days and cross the Kennebec on either September 29 or 30, weather depending. That then leaves me 2 or 3 days hiking to reach Monson, Maine. Monson is the last civilization before entering the 100-mile wilderness.  I plan to take a day off there before entering the 100 miles.

I have been in contact with some hostels and guides in Monson. I am not sure I am up to doing the entire 100-mile wilderness in one shot. There are 2 or 3 spots that are accessible via gated logging roads, and a few of the hostels will do supply drops to the trail. I may arrange a ride out of and back into the wilderness via one of these. I need to finalize that before I get to Monson. 

I have also started to plan my way home. After finishing Katahdin, I will spend the night in Millinocket, Maine. From there, I need to take a bus or car to Bangor, Maine, about 3 hours. From Bangor, I will take a bus another 3 hours to Portland, Maine, where I can pick up an Amtrak train to Boston. I will switch trains in Boston and take the train to BWI, where Dana will pick me up. The nice thing about the train is that I don’t have to mess around with airport security, which can be a big deal with all my gear. Also, since I won’t know my schedule for certain until just a few days before, I can easily make last-minute train and bus arrangements.