Day 149 – Flume Visitor Center to Garfield Ridge Campsite

“I’m on the top of the world looking down on creation

And the only explanation I can find

Is the love that I’ve found, ever since you’ve been around

Your love’s put me at the top of the world” – The Carpenters

There’s an old saying about the White Mountains during a northbound thru-hike attempt. It says you have completed 80 percent of the miles, but you have only spent 20 percent of the energy you’ll need to complete your thru-hike. Let’s see how true that is.

Up at 6:00. Ate breakfast and finalized yesterday’s blog. Finished packing and shuttled from hostel to trail at 7:15.

Crap! Forgot my earphones so had to go back to hostel and get them. Took an 8:00 shuttle back to trail, first time I forgot something in over 1800 miles! On trail at 8:30.

A chance of rain showers after 4 p.m. Mostly sunny, with a high near 53. West wind 20 to 30 mph, with gusts as high as 50 mph. Chance of precipitation is 30%. 40% chance of rain showers overnight with low of 40.

I’m not wild about this new weather forecast, but it could be worse. Wet gear tonight and tomorrow morning will suck.

The climb up to Mount Liberty was a steep climb, but just big rock steps. No rock scrambles. Easier than 3 days ago ascending South Kinsman. 

Passed by Liberty Springs campsite at 10:30 and 3.5 miles (2.5 on AT). 

Reached Franconia Ridge at 11:00. Steady wind with frequent gusts, partly cloudy. Franconia Ridge, from the summit of Little Haystack to Mount Lafayette, is New Hampshire’s second-highest range, after the Presidential Range. The climb from Liberty to the start of Franconia was about the same as the climb up to Liberty, but not quite as steep. Once up to Franconia and moving above the tree line, everything changes.

The ridge is a rocky, windswept ridge walk with good-sized ascents and descents for each of Little Haystack Mountain, Mount Lincoln, and Mount Lafayette. I had 40-50 mph wind and 80 mph gusts, and that is a mellow day up here. Even with the wind and cold, I was in short sleeves and shorts. The physical exertion kept me plenty warm. Most day hikers are massively bundled up.

Summited Little Haystack (4755 feet) at 12:15. About 8 people and a dog were up here. It’s just amazing up here. Pictures below are looking back at Liberty Mountain and then ahead at Mount Lincoln.

After Little Haystack, there was a ridge walk to Mount Lincoln.

YouTube video of ridge walk to Mount Lincoln 

Summited Mount Lincoln (5082 feet) at 12:50. Looking forward at Mount Lafayette.

Clear enough to get a good view of Mount Washington to the north. 

YouTube video of ridge walk from Mount Lincoln to Mount Lafayette.

At 1:20, I stopped for a snack ascending Lafayette. 

Summited Mount Lafayette (5246 feet) at 1:40.

YouTube video of the 360-degree view on Mount Lafayette summit 

After Lafayette, there is still a lot of hiking above the tree line before descending off Franconia Ridge and heading to Mount Garfield.

YouTube video of the descent off Franconia Ridge 

The descent is harder than the ascent. Once below the tree line, it gets even harder. This thing is almost vertical.

Passed by Garfield Pond at 3:45 while ascending Mount Garfield. My feet and knees are really talking to me after this descent and then ascent up Garfield.

Reached the summit of Garfield (4467 feet) at 4:20. Awesome view looking back across the valley at what I climbed and hiked today.

Reached Garfield Ridge Campground at 4:50. Set up a tent and had dinner by 6:10. Chatted with some section hikers and one NOBO while having dinner. It’s getting cold fast, so I crawled into my quilt by 6:15. 

I averaged a little under 1.5 miles per hour today. I’ll use that as a baseline for planning the rest of my hikes in the Whites. I made my reservations at Mizpah Hut and Madison Spring Hut for Wednesday and Thursday, respectively. Lakes of the Clouds Hut was booked.

It’s hard to describe today. A lot of AT hikers don’t get blue sky days like I have been having. The hike across Franconia Ridge and over four 4000-footers including 5246 feet for Lafayette was amazing. I can’t put into words the exhilaration of getting up here and experiencing the sights, sounds, the wind, just everything. The views are spectacular. Just being physically able to do this is a rush. An older local hiker passed me and said that your first time up here is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Return visits never measure up to the first time. What an amazing day, with the Presidentials yet to come later this week.

Technical Notes:

• Pop Tarts 370
• Snickers 250
• Zero-sugar sausage 240
• Snickers 250
• Zero-sugar sausage 120
• Cheese crackers 250
• Zero-sugar sausage 120
• Oreos 480
• Roast beef sub 1300
• Water 1.5
• Miles 11.3
• Time 8:30
• Elevation gain 5525
• Calories consumed 3400
• Calories burned 7000